Back during the Winelovers Grand we presented the two faces of Kékfrankos aka Blaufränkisch from Hungary and Austria, respectively with the cooperation of the Club der Weinakademiker.
In Austria, it is the second most planted variety with 3009 hectares, while in Hungary it is the number one with over 7.500 ha.
Austria is mainly focusing today on single varietal and usually, full-bodied serious reds are made, especially in the Burgenland and Carnuntum area.
While in Hungary Kékfrankos finds many purposes from light red (and rosé wines) to the key ingredient of the Bikavér wines (Eger and Szekszárd) and occasionally full-bodied wines too. My personal feeling is that because Hungary has many high profile international red varieties the focus tends to shift away from Kékfrankos when it comes to „serious business”.
With the strict DAC system implemented Austria is having an advantage when it comes to defining the style and highlighting the individual place of origin. While Hungary has no shortage in Kékfrankos personality with a growing number of appellations excelling outstanding wines from the volcanic peninsula of Tihany to the gneiss of Kőszeg or limestone of Sümeg. The key message is: that greatness should reflect the origin, otherwise it’s exchangeable.
Tasting line-up (in no particular order)
- Capári Balázs, Kékfrankos 2019 (Sümeg)
- Heimann & Fiai, Bati Kereszt Kékfrankos 2019 (Szekszárd)
- Szent Donát Borkúria, Magma Kékfrankos 2019 (Tihany)
- Unger Bormanufaktúra, Fiatal Kálvária Kékfrankos 2020 (Kőszeg)
- Wetzer Péter, Spern Steiner Kékfrankos 2017 (Sopron)
- Etyeki Kúria, Kékfrankos 2017 („Sopron”)
- Esterhazy, Blaufränkisch Ried Schildten 2017 (Leithaberg DAC)
- Weingut Kirchknopf, Blaufränkisch Föllikberg (Leithaberg DAC)
- Weingut Jalits, Blaufränkisch 2019 (Eisenberg DAC)
- Weingut Achs Paul, Blaufränkisch Ungerberg 2019 (Burgenland/”Neusiedlersee”)
- Weingut Josef und Maria Reumann, Reserve Blaufränkisch altes Weingebirge 2017 (Mittelburgenland DAC)
- Weingut Gesellmann, Blaufränkisch Hochberc 2018 (Mittelburgenland DAC)
(All) Photo Credits: Winelovers/Gunduz Attila
