Sümeg is one of the newest appellations in Hungary. It is one of the most promising and exciting “creation” in the Hungarian wine country. Why? The geological and climate features are very closely defined within the boundary of three villages as well as they restricted themselves to just a few varieties. The most planted grape -Müller Thurgau- in the area did not make it thus the protected origin is even smaller, merely 11 hectares.
And of course the people behind it, their knowledge and work are of utmost importance; as we know wine (product) = place + people, the 3P´s.
It encompasses three villages, Csabrendek, Sümeg, and Sümegprága. The leading variety is Olaszrizling followed by Kékfrankos, Zweigelt and Furmint.
Sümeg is roughly 20 km from Lake Balaton, at the South-Western corner of the Bakony mountain range, bordering the counties of Zala and Vas. The area is amongst the most diverse in geology, predominantly limestone with a mix of flint and diatomaceous earth, volcanic silicate, dolomite from the Triassic period, and various limestones with clay and marl. The majority of the vineyards are between 250-350 m elevations, the wines almost always have a distinct freshness, and tartness with a crisp texture and hint of salty grit. Climate is less influenced by Lake Balaton but more due to elevation and the cool air from the Bakony mountain.
Still white, rosé and red wines can be produced as well as sparkling white and rosé. Their Penta wine style must be organically certified.
Map by VINGIS
It is one of the youngest protected designations of origin -and the smallest- in Hungary but it has lots of potentials. Due to the nature and people working within the appellation. The style is brisk with a distinctive limestone-like mineral note and a linear fruit-driven character. The organic approach by the handful of wine producers (their Penta wines must be organically certified) will most likely further highlight the close attachment to “nature”.
Some of the wines tasted (non-blind in no particular order)
Abeles, Zweigelt (barrel sample) 2021
Deep purple colour. Pronounced red fruit, a truckload of strawberry, raspberry, and kirsch. One may well call it the essence of the red berries. Pure fruit continues on the palate with a juicy texture and richness on the mid-palate. Well made, I hope it keeps the freshness and juicy red berry concentration in the bottle as well.
90 points
Capári, Chardonnay 2020
Creamy and fleshy stone fruit on the nose with lots of sweet spice, nutty bold fruit of peach and Williams’s pear. Dry, with a very high, refreshing acidity yet perfectly balanced. Smooth, round, lots of fruit, sweet spice showing a tremendous integration, lush pear, peach personality with a long finish.
91 points
Capári Kékfrankos 2019
Medium deep purple colour. Spicy, red fruit on the nose with a cool, juicy, red berry-led style. Pure fruit concentration, lovely, somewhat light on the body, yet very fine juicy red fruit, acidity is constantly refreshing the palate.
89 points
Égly, Vesperas Olaszrizling 2020
Medium lemon colour, slightly shy on the nose recalling herbal, almond and firestone. Restrained at the beginning but opening up slowly, with some peach, and yellow fruit followed by a dash of peppery, cashew tone. Dry, high acidity, quite tight and robust, lots of almonds, the combination of nutty and peppery minerality, medium-long finish.
88 points
