0

Kopár, the story

Attila Gere and his fellow winemaker friends from Villány were finally allowed to travel after the iron curtain fell. They jumped into a small bus, and the first journey took them to Bordeaux. This was the starting point of the whole idea. To make a great cuvée out of the main three Bordeaux varieties in Villány as well. The idea of the Kopar was born. In the beginning, it was more Cabernet Sauvignon which changed in the course of history (see below the winemaking) to Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The idea was always to have the finest single vineyards and the best barrels and blend them into one Grand Vin. For Attila, it was also important that the name on the label be easy enough to pronounce as well.

Kopar the brand

The Kopar as a brand has changed over the course, not just the vinification but also the label. New wines got introduced to the lineup; hence, a makeover was important. And since the next generation got more and more involved in the creation of the wines, it was time to reflect this on the bottle as well. „A. Gere” with the new design has also not spared the Kopar label, but it took over two months to put the old design into the drawer. The „A” stands by the way for Attila, Attila Jr., and Andrea.

The spelling has been altered over time as well. From Kopár to Kopar. No doubt Attila, with his wine, put this famous vineyard on the map. Since Kopár is officially a vineyard name with the implementation of the product specification, from the year 2012 the rule says 95% must come from the designated vineyard. And while Kopar (or Kopár) never claimed to be a single vineyard (it was always a blend from the best vineyards) in my opinion, this could have caused some confusion.

The word Kopár can be translated as bare, empty. This reflects the terroir (see below for details on the vineyard). Some reckon the name comes from the ancient Turkish word qopar, qupar which means free of bushes and deforested mountains.

Kopar winemaking

The Kopár style has changed throughout the years of making. In the beginning, Cabernet Sauvignon dominated the blend. The vintage of 2006 brought some change, and Cabernet Franc has been the dominant variety. While Gere (in the Gere-Weninger brand) always put a special focus on Cabernet Franc it just became later clear that Franc seems to be special in Villány. It often shows the feminine side, polished with elegance. Gere Kopar was never a single-vineyard wine but rather a blend of the best vineyards. Kopár was the first single vineyard that Attila rediscovered. The first vintages of French oak were used as well. Like in 2002, 80% Hungarian and  20% French barriques of 225 litres were all new, aged for 19 months.

Kopar change in winemaking

This gradually changed over time, and the Gere winery started to experiment with larger barrels 300+ litres and today it’s only Hungarian wood from Zemplén with 70% new wood. The alcoholic fermentation and malo happen in stainless steel tanks and open wooden vats. The Kopar is typically made with low yields around 25-30 hl/ha, high alcohol 14+% abv and it’s released the third year of the vintage. The current vintage is the 2020.

Kopár vineyard

It lies between Villány and Nagyharány, the Szársomlyó mountain with a height of 442 m. It covers around 62 hectares, and most of the vines do not go higher than 120–130 m, as the top soils start drastically becoming thinner and thinner. Higher the limestone crops out, and there is „nothing” really, hence the name. The grapes ripen two weeks earlier, and it has the highest sunshine hours throughout Hungary, with 2100 hours. The vines look completely to the south.

Ördögárok vineyard

It is like an amphitheatre; it is very warm and has high humidity. It can be fairly steep in some parts as well. The average temperatures are easily 3–4 °C higher here than elsewhere. The microclimate of the individual parcel is important; beside limestone, there is loess and red clay.

Konkoly vineyard

It is a monopole and belongs entirely to the Gere family. The name comes from a former noble family. The first vintage comes from 2001, as the Gere family worked on the replanting. The vines look to the southwest; going up to 240 metres, it resembles a cooler climate with limestone and loess as soil. Since it’s cooler, Syrah feels well here too.

Csillagvölgy vineyard

Closest to Villány, looking more to the west. Rich in humus, the wines coming from these vineyards usually show playful acidity and freshness with a distinctive fruitiness. The soil is a mix of limestone, marl, dolomite, and loess.

The wines (tasted during the Borkollégium masterclass)

Gere Kopar 2019 (magnum)

Deep ruby colour. Warm, ripe, and succulent fruit with lots of concentration. Bold spice, black fruit, dense and rich spicy notes, and a long, juicy finish. A symphony of blackcurrant, blackberry, and blueberry notes combine with rich and dense spicy undertones, offering a complex and satisfying tasting experience. Still very young, but promising.

92 points

Drink 2025-2035

A. Gere Kopar 2018 (magnum)

The garnet rim shows some evolution. Herbal nose with some dried cranberries, chocolate tart, and Christmas spice. Fresh and juicy mid palate, but there is a notion of drying, which seems premature for this vintage and from a magnum bottle. Nevertheless, it shows a solid finish.

88 points

Drink now – 2030

A. Gere Kopar 2017

Deep ruby colour. Lovely sweet spice, full of chocolate, vanilla, cloves, and nutmeg. Succulent on the palate with floral notes and a robust but sweet core. Full of blackberry-driven fruits, showing some blueberry. Long and concentrated finish.

91 points

Drink now – 2035

A. Gere Kopar 2016

Deep ruby colour. As you explore further, you’ll discover an herbal spice note reminiscent of peppermint, mingling gracefully with the bold presence of cassis. Allspice adds a layer of complexity, creating a symphony of flavours that keeps the palate intrigued. Sweet fruit at the core with a good balance, liveliness, and long finish.

93 points

Drink now – 2035

A. Gere Kopar 2015

Deep ruby colour with a garnet rim. Herbal spice with a prominent medicinal and barnyard note. The palate shows opulent spice, slightly drying with a fair concentration. It opens up a close-grained texture more on the dark chocolate nibs and pungent spice side. Robust tannins with a firm grip and full-bodied.

88 points

Drink now – 2028

Gere Kopar 2012

Medium-deep ruby colour. Developed nose, floral, spice, and still plenty of mature red and black berry notes. Forest fruit with a wild game-like note. Perfect nose; it shows maturity while still being lively and having some seductive personality. The wine has arrived…Great balance, with a suave yet grip on the mid-palate and a long, ripe finish. Lots of dark chocolate and sweet spice are helping out. Lovely, great to taste the sublime maturity here.

94 points

Drink now – 2028

Gere Kopar 2011

Medium-deep ruby colour. The mid-palate showcases a delightful concentration that unfurls gently but with remarkable depth. The spice notes, ever so graceful, mingle with herbal accents to create a harmonious balance that is as intricate as it is inviting. It’s an experience that encourages contemplation, a wine that beckons you to explore its evolving complexity.

90 points

Drink now – 2025

Gere Kopar 2007

Ruby colour. With a gorgeous ripe black fruit drive and a sweet spice-led nose. Christmas spice, toffee, and fudge are all wrapped in delicate chocolate mousse. Followed by leather and tobacco. Seductive concentration of sweet fruit core with a long finish. One of the best wines of the night, no doubt! Reflecting the warm (and earlier) vintages, high alcohol with a dash of sweetness is in pristine balance.

94 points

Drink now – 2030

Gere Kopár 2003

Garnet colour. Spice and herbal-driven style with a lovely cured meaty note. Like a fine piece of ‘jamon’ spiced up nicely with salt and aged gracefully. Umami concentration on the palate, soy sauce, and the meaty sensation continue on the palate as well. It’s more about the spice, herbs, and lovely ageing than anything else. Solid core and concentration; long finish.

93 points

Drink now

Gere Kopár 2002

Amber colour. Red powdered paprika pepper takes centre stage, creating a bold and vivid flavour profile. The wine’s robust and full-bodied nature comes to life on the palate. Though the finish is of medium length, it’s a memorable conclusion to this journey.

Herbal and spice-driven with a red powdered paprika pepper. Robust and full-bodied with a medium finish.

89 points

Drink now

 

In Hungary, there are few wine brands that can boast a similar track record as Gere Kopar. Since 1997, a cuvée from Villány has been included among the top tier of fine Hungarian wines, which are exported worldwide. And the story continues…