Furmint is arguably the most important white grape variety in Hungary. Not in terms of size (3950 ha) but in terms of quality, diversity, history and recent attention, fame.
While Hungary has vast number of white grape varieties planted throughout yet there is only a handful which meant to produce high quality wines with complexity, depth, dimension, and focus on the finish as well as capability to develop through time, hence potential.
Some potential varieties are much localized such as Ezerjó (e.g. Mór), Kéknyelű (Badacsony), Juhfark (e.g. Somló). Looking at the stats the white varieties with a share of 1000 ha or more and with potential to quality (as pointed out above and based on track record) are only a handful.
The below table highlights those varieties with their size (in hectare) and with plantings from 2012 to 2019 and their change in %.
The stats
| Variety/Year | 2012 | 2019 | Change from 2012 to 2019 |
| Furmint | 3762 | 3951 | 5% |
| Olasz rizling | 3793 | 3844 | 1% |
| Szürkebarát | 1465 | 1711 | 17% |
| Chardonnay | 6848 | 2351 | -66% |
| Hárslevelű | 1591 | 1622 | 2% |
| Riesling | 1102 | 1258 | 14% |
Source: Hungarian Ministry of Agriculture
While I believe that a fairly high number of PDO’s are capable to produce fine to outstanding wines in Hungary and it may mostly be „the tool” (grape variety/ies) which lack the potential to do so. At a recent tasting –without Furmint- this above statement became true again.
Grapes are a tool to highlight the sense of place
Looking from the varietal perspective
Olaszrizling (some times spelled Olasz rizling in Hungarian) has not lost much of its importance and is a fairly robust variety translating the sense of place to certain extend yet due to its neutral character does not mind to be blended with noble varieties such as Furmint of even others. Depending on its origin and approach it share some of the almond, almond blossom, neutral citrus, apple fruit with some Williams pear, honey with age and as its approaching a riper style. On volcanic or another „individual” soil like red iron (around Csopak) it changes personality and tasting notes refer to certain minerality, salty, gritty tones as well as some edgy spice, herbal (peppermint, basil, …) elements with freshness and moderate fruit & co. aromas.
Szürkebarát (Pinot gris) a rather neglected variety in Hungaray when it comes to high quality wine. People seem to be hooked on the sugar wagon and making unbalanced off-dry(ish) or high alcohol whites. I agree challenging grape yet the richness and oily character (resembling more Alsace on the international stage) could well be adopted in the volcanic areas of Mátra, Badacsony.
Chardonnay lately in decline as only very few look at the varieties true merit. However it could work wonders as a blending partner as well beside Ezerjó in Mór for instance adding complexity and textural elements. As well as in areas such as Balatonboglár, Mátra, Tolna (three most significant areas in terms of size) yet the more classic red wine areas such as Eger or Villány could shine as a single varietal with the Chardonnay.
Hárslevelű, is somewhat a unique variety slightly aromatic working well as a blending partner with Furmint but also sharing awesome features as a single varietal wine too. It shows well on the loess soil of Tokaj and Tarcal, but adding some ease to the tension of Furmint and lifting it with perfume in dry (estate) wines for example. While in Eger’s Debrő district it’s featured as a separate PDO (Debrői Hárslevelű) it’s yet an area which could be explored by quality minded winemakers further. Mátra, Somló but even Villány has this variety planted to a certain extend and for my it’s a hidden gem with true potential. Due to the subtle perfume, freshness on one side and on the other the richness, bold fruity notes with added complexity and depth if taken care of.
Riesling, most top producers source their clones, cutting from Germany or Austria and rightfully so. However none of the regions take real advantage of this fantastic variety. Kunság (570 ha) appreciates the acidity and late ripening quality but there are at best 1-2 producers who receives medals on the international stage. Otherwise a scattered throughout of the country from proximity of the Danube (Pannonhalma, Neszmély and Tolna in the South), around the Balaton and perhaps it shows here the finest expression throughout of Hungary.
