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Weinviertel the true Grüner Veltliner
Wine

Weinviertel the true Grüner Veltliner

By 27/09/2023 No Comments

The north-eastern corner of Austria claims to have the most original Grüner Veltliner. Or to go even further, Weinviertel DAC is the original, the true Grüner Veltliner. This, of course, raised some eyebrows. At the annual lecture meeting of the Austrian Wine Academy (Weinakademie) with some fellow teachers. As it brings up whether the other region may or may not produce a true Grüner Veltliner. Further on, the DAC legislation permits having up to maximum 15% other quality grapes in the blend as well (based on generic EU laws of labelling).

Nevertheless, the Weinviertel was the first DAC. The only one which focuses purely on this variety under the specific origin classification, the Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC). Their unique selling position(UPS) is the Grüner (G.V.).

Weinviertel DAC – Grüner Veltliner

The Weinviertel used to promote in their slogan the „Pfefferl“ the so-called peppery note. As Grüner has a fair amount of rotundone. Especially when you apply longer skin contact. Higher acidity excels this compound sensory wise. And Weinviertel is amongst the coolest, renown for the brisk, vivid style of winemaking.
What does the regional committee do in promoting the region? They have put a strong emphasis on the variety Grüner Veltliner. Their marketing efforts highlight that it is the only Austrian wine which is locally judged before in can get the seal of approval. Four out of six judges must approve the „typicity“. Hence the lady with the blindfold on the pictures. People, enjoying together the wine this is some of the key motive in the marking campaign. Due to strict EU regulation on alcohol (wine) promotion, wine may not touch one’s lips to imitate drinking, which personally I found foolish, perhaps even childish. So you don´t see people savouring just imitating it. The Weinviertel spends roughly 150,000 EUR on media campaigns. Unified communication is important, this goes also means the design of the bottle. Weinviertel DAC, the district, the region -and not the grape- must be written with the largest fonts on the label, bottle. The suggested retail price for the „classic“ Weinviertel DAC is 7.20 EUR. Reserve and Grosse Reserve are the next two levels, slowly more and more winemaker introduce these categories -at least Reserve- to their portfolio. They have more serious criteria and should be sold for more hence it is may not be relevant for everybody.

Weinviertel Wine

The vineyard classification will only work in appellation which have Bourgogne-like system, bottom the generic wine (region), village and vineyard (Ried) wine. Currently Weinviertel doesn´t have this system at the moment. And if they apply the system it will work only within the DAC framework, meaning just for Grüner Veltliner. Jokingly the Weinviertel says they have three varieties: „veltliner, veltliner and grüner veltliner“. Local running gag. The Weinviertel is fairly complex when it comes to climate and soil. Despite the proximity to the Kamptal (in the West), the vegetation is 5-7 days behind of that of Kamptal. Meaning the Weinviertel is much cooler.

To guest by Phillip Zull

I met Phillip during my time with Wein & Co where I tasted many of his wines on a constant basis. He was showing us his vineyard and explaning how important is to have heathy micro organism in the soil. It makes no point he says when you add artificial fertilizer if you have no water as of lack of dilution. Since 2006 they work compost tee and green manure. The organic concept if fully enforced, working sustanable. It is not easy to find these days labour as well continues Phillip despite the proximity to Czech Repbluic, he needs 10 people minimum during the harvest since they pick everything by hand.
The Zull GV portfolio consist of three levels: Lust und Laune (desire and mood if you wish to translate it) the entry level, Weinviertel DAC, and Reserve.
Schrattenthal is the smallest vine growing community in Austria, it has one castle and a small palace as well. And of course it is also the home of the Zull Winery. The estate has 20 hectare of vineyard, produces around 120,000 bottles of wine and the majority (ca. 80%) is exported into 18 different countries. Phillip’s grand father started the agricutural business, not just wine. From his two sons the older was suppose to take over the agricultural business but was involved in a deadly accident. The younger brother, -Phillip’s father- decided to take it over, despite following a different carrier path and not knowing anything about the business. The quality focus was early set. Purity of fruit and the expression of the origin are the key with the personality of the creator.

 

Weinviertel Tasting

Hans Setzer, Weinviertel DAC Reserve 8000 Ried Lass 2022

Limestone heavy soil. Medium lemon colour. Restrained, spice. Dry heavy lees note, full-bodied, fresh style with depth, ripe baked apple, spice, medium short finish. Biscuit touch pear, medium fresh acidity, spice.

85 points, Drink now – 2030

Hans Setzer, Weinviertel DAC Reserve 8000 Ried Laa 2017

Medium gold colour. Noticeable nose, with an obvious development, fully development, less fruit more on tertiary notes, smoke, candied fruit, sugar-coated pear, autolysis lees work plus refined oxidative touch helps to elevate the character. Dry, medium full body, ripe, juicy, lemon, long finish, herbal finish, some lactone notes, Cheesy, nutty finish with expression, long.

90 points, Drink now – 2032

Kerstin Schüller, Weinviertel DAC Hinterleiten 2020

Medium deep lemon colour. Apple, pear, ripe fruit, spice, white pepper, pink pepper, cool spice on the nose. Dry zesty, bright, apple, pear, juicy lemon, lime, lemon peel, medium light body, crisp finish. Noticeable lees contact adds some dimension and length to the wine, very drinkable.

87 points, Drink now – 2030

Kerstin Schüller, Weinviertel DAC Reserve 2016

Medium deep lemon green colour. Restrained nose, tight. Dry, crisp with an oily touch, bright ripe yellow apple, fresh medium finish. Round and easy to drink. Lively bright, approachable with freshness and well- balanced style.

87 points, Drink now – 2025

Weingut Prechtl, Zellerndorf Weinviertel DAC Classic 2022

Medium pale lemon colour. Spice, floral, pepper, Pear, greengage, white pepper, lime sorbet. Fresh crisp, light body, crisp straight forward simple but easy to drink. Lively zesty finish lime driven, with a nice leesy note at the finish.

88 points, drink now – 2030

Weingut Prechtl, Weinviertel DAC Reserve Leitstall 2021

Deep lemon colour. Spice, brioche, elegant, toasty and reserved smoky touch. Dry, crisp, lively, zesty finish with a lime driven note, spice, crisp lively, medium long. Hint of bitter touch at the back, leesy medium long finish. 100% mlf

89 points, drink now – 2029

Weingut Gruber Röschitz, Weinviertel DAC, Ried Hundspoint 2016

Medium lemon colour. Refined nose, pear, spice, ripe apple, delicious fruit. Fairly expressive and refined. Pear, spice, hint of sweetness. Touch of horse radish, some maturity, crisp, well balanced creamy texture and medium long finish with personality. Brioche walnut with a smoky touch. Loess soil from 290 m elevation.

90 points, drink now – 2031

Weingut Gruber Röschitz, Weinviertel DAC Reserve Ried Mühlberg 2015

Medium deep lemon green colour. Reserved nose, spice, hint of exotic fruit and toffee. Dry, crisp fresh style with depth but moderate finish. Good fruit concentration and hint of minerality, salty texture. Strong lees work a hint of bitterness.

89 points drink now – 2030

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