With just 65 400 hectare of vineyard surface it produces annually (depending on harvest) ca. 3,5 M hl of wine; roughly speaking 1 % of all the world’s wine is produced in Hungary.
Hungarian wine is hugely diverse, especially when it comes to soil types and grape varieties.
Out of the 159 permitted (including temporarily permitted too) varieties, 114 white- and 45 red grapes are listed. And there are a few others which are minor (e.g. Fekete járdovány) but do exist statistically making it 176 and counting.
While Hungary has a GI system implemented, all the PGI and PDO have a product specification some are more strict (e.g. Csopak PDO) others are more loose (Duna PDO), sometimes due to their size or for the matter of fact a huge number of permitted varieties are allowed, used.
The idea here is let’s look at each and every „wine district” from a factual point of view (with the most (5) planted grape varieties listed) and draft in the second part personal thought on styles and possibilities within the given frame work (e.g. grape varieties, soil, climate, history, educational/communication stand point) simplifying, funnelling down terroir to a clear message and typical („style”).
Within some wine district (PDO) there might be a smaller PDO if relevant (e.g. limited styles of wines are produced) it will be highlighted as well. The regions are in no particular order below.
In search of typicity, in some places it´s easier…
TOKAJ WINE REGION
Tokaj PDO (5814 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Furmint | 3779 | 65% |
| Hárslevelű | 1125 | 19% |
| Muscat lunel | 586 | 10% |
| Zéta | 115 | 2% |
| Kövérszőlő | 49 | 1% |
Style: The most famous wine region with the most defined style, certainly when it comes to Aszú wines. This section is worth to discuss in a separate blog post as its very complex and exciting at the same time. Yet, for the time being, the most important style:
- Aszú: sweet white wine with the influence of botrytis, due to winemaking technique (aszú berry soaking) there is a certain grip on the palate with magnificent, complex and long lingering fruit, spice plenty of other flavours. Perfect balance between high acidity (and I mean high!) – luscious sweetness.
- Szamorodni: made in dry and sweet style as well with the influence of botrytis, usually medium to full bodied with either a lovely nutty tone (if dry) and luscious, oily with a certain additional weight on the palate. Distinctively different to late harvest category!
- Dry white wines: various styles exist. From blends of Furmint and Hárslevelű to produce an everyday wine to serious single vineyard wines all have a certain personality.
- Sparkling wine: something to watch out for but too new to comment in depth…
BALATON
Badacsony PDO (1405 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Olasz rizling | 594 | 42% |
| Szürkebarát / Pinot gris | 194 | 14% |
| Pinot noir | 76 | 5% |
| Riesling | 52 | 4% |
| Kéknyelű | 46 | 3% |
Style: No fluke Pinot noir is on the podium, yet I would rather reckon it’s more of a “white wine” district based on the majority of the wines bottled and tasted. Pronounced acidity with a certain salty, gritty, stony note as well as medium full bodied in style. Restrained fruit profile perhaps with a tight structure sometimes. It should be more about individual sites and “hills” within this fascinating region.
Balatonboglár PDO (3551 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Chardonnay | 398 | 11% |
| Irsai Olivér | 385 | 11% |
| Merlot | 334 | 9% |
| Zöld veltelíni / Grüner veltliner | 300 | 8% |
| Királyleányka | 294 | 8% |
Style: Hard to tell, but usually fruity medium to full bodied wines. Fairly versatile region from fizz to top red wines and everything in the middle and between. While individual single vineyards do exist its more about the variety.
Balatonfelvidék PDO (831 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Olasz rizling | 346 | 42% |
| Szürkebarát / Pinot gris | 91 | 3% |
| Chardonnay | 60 | 2% |
| Irsai Olivér | 51 | 1% |
| Kékfrankos | 39 | 1% |
Fact: Hard to differentiate since there is a sub district closer to the Balaton lake and the volcanic mountains while other ones further away from the lake as well as on the Western tip producing way different wines. Generally speaking the area around the Káli basin is the superior. Usually fine fruit with well balanced minerality, spicy tone and crisp acidity, perhaps a bit cool in style and a friendly edge to it. Interesting to see in the future smaller zones or even proper PDO´s to evolve around Sümeg or even Hévíz.
Balatonfüred-Csopak PDO (2010 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Olasz rizling | 739 | 37% |
| Kékfrankos | 161 | 8% |
| Szürkebarát / Pinot gris | 123 | 6% |
| Cabernet sauvignon | 102 | 5% |
| Zweigelt | 101 | 5% |
Csopak PDO (108 ha) only Olasz rizling (min. 85%) and Furmint are the two varieties permitted in the product specification. Arguably the most specific -with a clear message- PDO in Hungary as only village and single vineyard dry white wines can be produced, which basically are Olasz rizling (only). Tihany PDO (77 ha) could almost(!) be something similar as only red grapes (8) are permitted to produce either rosé or red wine.
Style: Csopak PDO stands out here no doubt with Olaszrizling as a variety highlighting the sense of place (red iron soil), fresh acidity, certain salty, minerality backed up with green- and stone fruit, medium full bodied. The rest of the area hard to define, since there are too many (63 mentioned varieties in the stats) varieties. Tihany well be interesting to see as more bottled/labelled wines are released, especially Kékfrankos is something to watch there, perhaps the Nivegy Valley something to watch how it develops in the future.
Nagy Somló PDO (557 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Olasz rizling | 147 | 26% |
| Juhfark | 101 | 18% |
| Furmint | 79 | 14% |
| Hárslevelű | 35 | 6% |
| Tramini | 17 | 3% |
The GI Somló hardly used, is a PDO only for white grapes.
Style: While a wide number of grape varieties exist, Somló to my knowledge used to be a classic place for “blends” and less about a specific variety. Generally speaking high acidity, oily structure, medium to full bodied with a salty, mineral grip on the palate with a long finish. Its less about the variety but really more about the place. I have limited experience with rosé- or red wine.
Zala PDO (826 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Olasz rizling | 70 | 8% |
| Cabernet sauvignon | 60 | 7% |
| Zöld veltelíni / Grüner veltliner | 44 | 5% |
| Riesling | 39 | 5% |
| Müller Thurgau | 31 | 4% |
Style: Impossible to define, since there are too many varieties to consider. Within the stats “other whites” is one of the leading category, I did not list this above, but it does exist, reflecting the fragmentation. Wide spread and it would be interesting to see more specific wines from: Mura (between Lenti and Letenye), the Kis Balaton area (Zalakaros) and Szentgyörgyvár to mentioned just a few.
UPPER HUNGARY WINE REGION
Bükk PDO (1011 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Kékfrankos | 199 | 20% |
| Leányka | 167 | 16% |
| Chardonnay | 59 | 6% |
| Zweigelt | 54 | 5% |
| Olasz rizling | 51 | 5% |
Style: Exciting district between Tokaj and Eger with an increasing personality, thanks more and more conscious winemakers. In terms red wines usually light, refreshing aromas are the rule, when it comes to white wines, crisp, light to medium bodied, sometimes even complexity and mineralty are showcased. Beside the above mentioned varieties its worth to point out Zenit as well with 36 hectare. But Bükk is not necessarily about pure varietal character, but rather about well thought blends.
Eger PDO (5723 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Kékfrankos | 1269 | 22% |
| Merlot | 523 | 9% |
| Cabernet sauvignon | 471 | 8% |
| Blauburger | 314 | 5% |
| Hárslevelű | 280 | 5% |
Within Eger, the formally known sub-district Debrő (540 ha) has been promoted to Debrői Hárslevelű, referencing to the variety. While other aromatic varieties may be blended into this wine yet it has to be at least 85%. Perhaps it’s more about the variety and romantic notion, then the actual origin as late harvest (sweet) wines are also permitted and limited numbers are released too.
Style: Lots of varieties are to be found in Eger, close to the top 5, are 4 other well known varieties as well. Perhaps best to say Eger is more about blends. Nothing better proves it than Bikavér and the white counterpart Egri Csillag.
Mátra PDO (6633 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Müller Thurgau | 619 | 9% |
| Kékfrankos | 604 | 9% |
| Szürkebarát/ Pinot gris | 559 | 8% |
| Muscat ottonel | 528 | 8% |
| Irsai Olivér | 478 | 7% |
Style: Mission impossible to define such thing. There are over 70 varieties listed as planted (not necessarily permitted) in Mátra. Yet I think it’s an exciting but unexploited area and more than just showing simple varietal character (e.g. aromatic, perfume & co.), but real personality.
UPPER PANNON WINE REGION
Etyek-Buda PDO (1588 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Chardonnay | 219 | 14% |
| Irsai Olivér | 152 | 10% |
| Zöld veltelíni / Grüner veltliner | 129 | 8% |
| Pinot noir | 118 | 7% |
| Szürkebarát/Pinot gris | 117 | 7% |
Style: while there is a wide range of varieties on the list, yet its best known for crisp, refreshing white wines, fine base for sparkling wine and Pinot noir. That pretty much sums it up. But on the contrary the sub districts of Buda, Etyek and even Velence (the lake) show different soils and climate, for instance at the lake the warmest spots show real good potential for red wines as well.
Mór PDO (555 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Ezerjó | 110 | 20% |
| Chardonnay | 62 | 11% |
| Tramini | 38 | 7% |
| Sauvignon blanc | 36 | 7% |
| Riesling | 34 | 6% |
Style: Due to climate (cool, windy, rainy) and soil (limestone and loess with some clay and dolomite) and looking at the varieties its giving medium bodied, crisp white wines with pronounced acidity, nervy yet oily structure as well. Blends of the two main varieties work wonders sometimes.
Neszmély PDO (1032 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Chardonnay | 184 | 18% |
| Szürkebarát/Pinot gris | 141 | 14% |
| Sauvignon blanc | 76 | 7% |
| Királyleányka | 70 | 7% |
| Müller Thurgau | 63 | 6% |
Style: Usually fruity and refreshing white wines but since there are wide number of varieties in the game hard to define a narrower style.
Pannonhalma PDO (628 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Olasz rizling | 149 | 24% |
| Irsai Olivér | 69 | 11% |
| Riesling | 64 | 10% |
| Chardonnay | 40 | 6% |
| Tramini | 33 | 5% |
Style: Fairly young wine district and due to its soil (limestone, loess, sand) and climate (cool and windy) its known for refreshing white wines with distinct varietal profile. Sometimes due to the more southern position it shows some exciting medium full bodied, smooth red wines as well.
Sopron PDO (1630 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Kékfrankos | 849 | 52% |
| Zweigelt | 151 | 9% |
| Zöld veltelíni/ Grüner veltliner | 114 | 7% |
| Cabernet sauvignon | 101 | 6% |
| Merlot | 79 | 5% |
Style: Clearly its Kékfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch/Lemberger) country. The product specification even highlights this style but that´s about it. The wines shows clearly elevated freshness, acidity, with a certain tightness in the structure and subdued minerality at best. Relatively lighter colour, softer medium tannin, medium body followed by spice and red fruit, mostly.
PANNON WINE REGION
Pécs PDO (639 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Olasz rizling | 67 | 10% |
| Chardonnay | 59 | 9% |
| Müller Thurgau | 36 | 6% |
| Kékfrankos | 35 | 6% |
| Irsai Olivér | 34 | 5% |
Style: Hard to define as there are a wide number of varieties in the game. Loess, limestone but even clay-slate exist in the area with a moderately warm climate suggesting fresh, fruity wines in general. I shall point out Cirfandli with 23 hectares, literally the only place where this variety exists in Hungary.
Szekszárd PDO (2289 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Kékfrankos | 660 | 29% |
| Merlot | 386 | 17% |
| Cabernet franc | 255 | 11% |
| Cabernet sauvignon | 252 | 11% |
| Olasz rizling | 93 | 4% |
Style: While Olaszrizling just made it yet there use to be a saying in Szekszárd: Would you like to have a “Szekszárdi or a white wine”, reflecting its a red wine country. Blends, see Bikavér is common and I shall highlight Kadarka with 82 hectares as an important variety as well. The red wines usually show a smooth tannin structure, combination of fruit and spice, never too heavy yet rather with a certain freshness and good, harmonious drinkability.
Tolna PDO (2352 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Kékfrankos | 365 | 16% |
| Chardonnay | 226 | 10% |
| Zöld veltelíni / Grüner veltliner | 221 | 9% |
| Merlot | 163 | 7% |
| Cabernet sauvignon | 151 | 6% |
Style: Hard to pinpoint a style since many varieties exist and it’s a wide spread -relatively new- district as well. Southern parts somewhat similar to Szekszárd while the Northern parts are closer to the Balaton. Varietal character dominates, fruity, fresh wines are usually the norm.
Villány PDO (2449 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Cabernet sauvignon | 432 | 18% |
| Portugieser | 356 | 15% |
| Cabernet franc | 336 | 14% |
| Merlot | 296 | 12% |
| Kékfrankos | 283 | 12% |
Style: Clearly a red wine country. Special emphasize is put on Cabernet franc, producing serious, full bodied red wines as well as the blend with Portugieser, light, fruity red wine called “Redy”. Usually medium to full bodied red wines with pronounced black fruit, spice and medium to high alcohol (except Redy) as well as elevated tannins.
DUNA WINE REGION
Csongrád PDO (1020 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Kékfrankos | 288 | 28% |
| Cserszegi fűszeres | 85 | 8% |
| Kövidinka | 80 | 8% |
| Riesling | 79 | 8% |
| Zweigelt | 65 | 6% |
Style: Hardly any wine is bottled here, it’s difficult to state, yet mostly white crisp, fruity light to medium bodied wines. Due to the warmer climate red wines can do pretty well here too.
Hajós-Baja PDO (1871 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Cserszegi fűszeres | 437 | 23% |
| Kékfrankos | 396 | 21% |
| Bianca | 125 | 7% |
| Cabernet sauvignon | 110 | 6% |
| Zweigelt | 88 | 5% |
Style: Wide range of varieties make it difficult to pin it down. But usually light to medium bodied wines reflecting more the variety character then the actual place.
Kunság PDO (20983 ha)
| Variety | Size (in ha) | % of the total |
| Bianca | 5142 | 25% |
| Cserszegi fűszeres | 3135 | 15% |
| Kékfrankos | 2499 | 12% |
| Aletta | 1938 | 9% |
| Kunleány | 741 | 4% |
Within the wider district (Duna) there are three smaller PDO:
Izsáki Aranysárfehér PDO for the variety Arany sárfehér, sparkling- and still wines are produced on 397 hectare, while Soltvadkert PDO on 170 hectare produces white, sweet and sparkling wines from the Ezerjó variety. While Monor PDO (392 ha) close to Budapest well confined area, is rather loosely defined when it comes to style.
Style: the above two smaller PDO´s due to the restriction on the variety excel more on style, but since there fairly new it takes time to develop their styles as well. Usually light bodied, medium to fresh acidity. The rest of the Kunság -with almost 100 varieties mentioned in the stats- is impossible to pinpoint anything, usually light, simple, fresh wines are the rule.
To be continued…
Some of the most common varieties found above have the following synonyms:
- Olasz rizling: Welschriesling, Grasevina
- Kékfrankos: Blaufränkisch, Lemberger
- Tramini: Traminer, Gewürztraminer
Side note: the stats are based on the actual figures of 2019 from the Ministry of Agriculture and National Wine Council of Vinegrowers. Notes on “style” reflect my personal opinion.
