Hungarian Forgotten Red Grapes are quietly making their way in a wine world full of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. It traces a journey through centuries of overlooked grape cultivation, obscured grape names, and vanished regional identities. More and more Hungarian winemakers are not only bringing back native grapes, but they are also fighting against the dominance of international uniformity and bringing genetic diversity back to the bottle.
NÉBIH, the local authority, registers over 250 permitted grape varieties in Hungary; many of them make it to Hungary’s 40+ appellations. However, these Hungarian Forgotten Red Grapes are typically not on the list of specific GIs, so they are frequently bottled wines without origin.
Noah’s Ark for Vines – PTE, Research Centre in Pécs
Beginning in the mid-twentieth century, the institute systematically collected pre-phylloxera varieties from historical Hungarian-growing areas, rescuing numerous ancient cultivars. According to recent accounts, the collection contains approximately one hundred Kárpát Basin heritage varieties, with only a few remaining in field cultivation beyond the gene bank. Pioneering work by Dr. Németh Márton and later Dr. Pál Kozma established the institute not only as a repository but also as an active centre for genetic mapping and clone selection. For decades, these ancient varieties—Csókaszőlő, Purcsin, Balafánt, and many others—existed only as a few precious mother vines within these research plots. József Szentesi was a key figure in the movement of resurrecting some long-lost varieties as wines.
The work of József Szentesi
If PTE is the heart of the movement, then winemaker József Szentesi is its soul. A quiet, unassuming figure based near the Velence Hills, Szentesi embarked on a personal quest in the late 1990s, driven by a simple yet profound curiosity. While poring over 19th-century ampelographic texts, he found descriptions of grapes once considered “first-class,” yet they were completely unknown to him. “I thought to myself, these should be tried,” he explains.
In 2003, with propagation material sourced from Pécs, he grafted 300 vines of Csókaszőlő. The following year, he produced a wine from it—believed to be the first commercial bottling in over 130 years. When he presented the wine to Dr. Kozma and his colleagues, the reaction was electric.
Csókaszőlő to Purcsin: Key Hungarian Forgotten Red Grapes
These are not easy grapes. They are demanding in the vineyard and require a thoughtful hand in the cellar. But their unique profiles are capturing the imagination of those who seek personality over power.
Csókaszőlő – Hungary’s Pinot Moment?
Tasting notes from Gyöngyöspata confirm Szentesi’s long-held belief that Csókaszőlő is both elegant and complex. The 2022 vintage had a vibrant red fruit profile with floral notes, fine tannins, and refreshing acidity. The structure is similar to Pinot Noir, but the character is wilder and more untamed. It can be moody in the vineyard, prone to drought and disease, but when managed correctly, it shines.
The Story — Before Kadarka’s rise, Csókaszőlő, also known as “Jackdaw Grape”, was a staple of Hungarian viticulture due to its dark, blackish colour. It was a critical blending partner in Budai Vörös, a well-known Austro-Hungarian export. An old saying perfectly captured the synergy: “One grape gives acidity [Csókaszőlő], and the other gives spice [Kadarka].”
The Challenge: Its revival exemplifies perseverance. Winemakers express frustration and respect for Csókaszőlő, which is known for its difficulty. To make one kilo, you need fifteen clusters.
Laska, The Raspberry-Scented Enigma
Laska continues to impress, especially with producers like Hegymente Szőlőbirtok and Szentesi. The 2023 (Hegymente) sample had lively acidity, pronounced raspberry notes, and fine tannins—all without filtration or fining. Winemakers describe it as a structurally sound, spontaneous fermenter with a distinct flavour profile that differentiates it even from other native red wines.
Despite being ignored for decades, Laska has quietly found advocates like Szentesi and András Kovács at Hegymente Szőlőbirtok. Kovács describes it as structurally sound, with acidity, firm tannin, and vibrant raspberry fruit—an unusual combination for indigenous red grapes. He makes barrel-aged, spontaneous fermentation wines that are unfiltered and unfined, with the goal of achieving purity of expression. Despite its origins in Serbia, or, some reckon, Styria, Laska has emerged as a pivotal figure in the Hungarian revival. Winemakers were perplexed at first, with Szentesi admitting, “I don’t understand why this one was abandoned.” Its signature flavour is a bright, electrifying wild raspberry, which is rarely found with such clarity in other red grape varieties. This is frequently topped with morello cherry, subtle earthy spices, and a hint of white pepper. The tannins are firm but fine-grained, giving the wine structure without being harsh.
Tihanyi Kék & Hajnos Kék: The Demanding Duo
Hajnos Kék has a firm structure and blue-fruited density. In 2023, its compact clusters were susceptible to rot, necessitating careful canopy management. However, the glass exhibits a rich colour and balance. Tarcali Kék, meanwhile, continues to entice with its spice and supple texture.
Hungarian Forgotten Red Grapes
Tihanyi Kék, The Spice Whisperer
Tihanyi Kék, a fickle grape with a strong personality, is renowned for its spice and aromatic lift. Despite challenges with yield and ripening, the wines reward perseverance. The 2024 sample impressed with floral aromas, red berries, and earthy undertones, demonstrating the grape’s resilience in hot, dry vintages.
A well-made Tihanyi Kék has an intoxicating perfume of violets, rose petals, and exotic spices, as well as a refreshing, linear acidity. It’s ethereal and aromatic.
Tarcali Kék and Kékbajor: The trusty workhorses
In contrast to the drama of the others, some varieties have proven surprisingly dependable. Szentesi calls Tarcali Kék “the most ideal red variety” from a viticultural standpoint. “It has beautiful, loose clusters; it’s small-berried and thick-skinned, and I’ve never had a single problem with it.” Kékbajor is another consistent performer, producing light, easy-drinking wines with fresh fruit that are frequently described as the ideal summer red when served slightly chilled. While not as well-known as Laska or Csókaszőlő, these grapes serve as a solid foundation for the movement. Don’t let the name fool you: Kékbajor is not Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch). This delicate variety, often made into chilled summer reds, stood out for its low alcohol, silky body, and soft red fruit.
Purcsin: Tokaj’s Forgotten Red
Rare red grapes in Tokaj historically included Purcsin, recorded in the early 20th century as permitted but ultimately excluded from the region’s “canonical trio”. I have tried some from Bálint Losonci, a grower in Mátra; it’s too early to say about the quality potential.
Purcsin in Tokaj
Why Hungarian Forgotten Red Grapes Matter Today
Reviving old grapes is not about nostalgia. It’s about resilience, differentiation, and reclaiming viticultural sovereignty. In a market increasingly dominated by uniformity, these varieties provide resistance.
They provide sommeliers, importers, and wine educators with new storytelling tools. They offer winemakers new sensory possibilities. For drinkers, they promise discovery.
The fact that Hungary has such a vast genetic reservoir, preserved through academic dedication and vigneron stubbornness, is a gift to the wine industry. And now is the time to pay attention. In an age of copycat wines, these Hungarian forgotten red grapes remind us that wine can still surprise, seduce, and speak with its own voice—if we are willing to listen.
Go outside. Try them. Discover them.
