Introduction: A Quiet Legend from Somló
For a long time, there were only two winemakers on Mount Somló who crafted wines that achieved recognition in the capital of Hungary, Budapest, and beyond. Béla Fekete and Imre Györgykovács. I feel lucky that I could visit both in Somló and had the chance to taste with them on a few occasions.
The Winemaker and His Philosophy
Imre has been creating wines on a small plot of land; his journey began in 1979. He has become a revered figure in Hungarian viticulture, known for his meticulous approach and dedication to quality over quantity. Such a humble and warmhearted person; I recall during my last visit he pulled out an old letter that I sent him as the chairman of the university’s wine society, a thank-you note for our visit, and he also kept the wine magazine that featured him, jokingly pointing out my note on his usage of oak.
Somló’s Volcanic Terroir and Native Grapes
Operating a modest one-hectare estate, Imre focuses mainly on indigenous grape varieties such as Olaszrizling, Furmint, and aromatic varieties such as Sárga muskotály and Tramini as well. His wines are characterised by spontaneous fermentation and ageing in oak barrels. The results are wines with pronounced acidity and a distinctive salty minerality, hallmarks of the Somló region.
Imre’s commitment to his craft has not gone unnoticed. He has been honoured with the Hungarian Order of Merit and was named Winemaker of Winemakers in 2012. Despite his acclaim, he remains humble, often shying away from the spotlight and focusing instead on the integrity of his wines.
Somló’s unique terroir, with its basalt-rich volcanic soils, imparts a distinctive character to its wines. The region’s wines are known for their high acidity and smoky, volcanic minerality, traits that Imre’s wines exemplify. These wines are not only a reflection of the land but also of his philosophy: to produce wines that are honest expressions of their origin.
As Imre gradually steps back from the public eye, his legacy endures through the wines that continue to captivate enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. His dedication to showcasing the unique qualities of Somló’s volcanic terroir ensures that his wines remain a benchmark for the region.
In the Vineyard: Precision Rooted in Volcanic Soil
For Imre Györgykovács, the vineyard is not just where wine begins — it’s where it’s decided. Working exclusively with his small, hand-tended plots, Imre’s approach is grounded in observation, restraint, and a decades-long understanding of how vines behave on this hill.
Somló is known for its steep slopes, basalt-rich soils, and unique airflow patterns. These aren’t just geographical features — they shape how grapes ripen, how acidity is retained, and how disease pressure evolves through the growing season. “The top of the hill buds weeks before the bottom,” he notes, “and the fog settles in the lowest rows, so I always see which leaves are hit by frost.”
In the Vineyard: Observation Over Intervention
His vineyard rows are a mix of older vines and newer plantings. Training systems vary some are trained low in a traditional umbrella (ernyő) style, and others more upright. But every vine is pruned and guided with care. “We try both gobelet and umbrella — we look at yield, but even more, we watch quality.” While others may harvest in three passes for different flavour profiles, Imre insists on a single, well-timed harvest: “It’s one site, one moment — I want it to speak clearly.”
The vineyard work is largely organic in spirit, even if not certified. Copper- and sulphur-based sprays dominate, with systemic products used only in the most extreme years. Unique wines come from unique places, and Somló is clearly such a place. Imre points out, “The vineyard has to breathe. Even if it’s just a little, oxygen makes all the difference.” Turning the soil in alternate rows, pushing for better aeration and root health.
He notices small things: how 10–15 centimetres of daily growth during a warm week can bend shoots overnight; how a young vine twists if guided too early; how a tight cluster in Tramini or Olaszrizling needs more canopy airflow. The work isn’t mechanical — it’s intuitive, built on rhythm, memory, and Somló’s slow pace.
This is where his wines begin: not in the cellar, not with the label, but among vines that grow in volcanic stone, cut by wind, and watched by a man who knows every inch of their history.
In the Cellar: Precision Without Pretension
Stepping into Imre’s cellar is a bit of a time travel – simple but effective. What you will find is a quiet, focused space where decisions are deliberate and driven by experience. Fermentations occur spontaneously. There’s no mystique — just the certainty that clean grapes and time can do most of the work.
His tools are simple; it’s more about the work in the vineyard. “If you work right in the vineyard,” he implies, “you don’t need to correct anything later.”
The wines remain in the barrel until it’s ready — which may take months and years in bottle. There’s no rush to market, no urgency to meet release dates. This patience isn’t about luxury; it’s about structure. His wines are defined by tension, balance, and longevity, and releasing them too early would compromise all three.
Tasting the Wines: Salt, Acidity, and Silence
Tasting the wines of Imre is less about being impressed than being drawn in. These aren’t loud wines. They don’t chase aromatic excess (not even Tramini) or showy oak. Instead, they move slowly, revealing layers and textures with air and time — much like the man who makes them.
The style is unmistakably Somló: dry, firm, and structured. The volcanic basalt soils of the hill translate into a distinct, sometimes almost salty minerality. That saltiness isn’t a metaphor — it’s a recurring sensory note, especially in his Olaszrizling and Furmint. Acidity is present, often sharp, yet perfectly balanced by texture and depth. One comment from the vineyard walk captures it well: “It’s not too high in acidity— but the mineral tension at the end holds it all together.”
Tramini behaves differently, showing more floral and spice-driven notes, but even that comes with restraint.
In a world of immediacy, Imre’s wines hold their ground. You don’t drink them because they’re fashionable. You drink them because they feel inevitable — as if this is what Somló has always tasted like.
A Legacy in Stillness: What Remains After the Bottle
Imre Györgykovács never chased recognition, but it found him. Over decades on the Somló hill, he has quietly shaped what serious Hungarian wine can be: vineyard-first, expressive, and rooted in volcanic earth.
That word — harmony — comes up again and again when people speak about Imre. Not only in the balance of his wines but also in the way he carries out his work: steady, exacting, and without noise.
He thinks about what comes next. While he doesn’t posture as a mentor, he has clearly shaped those around him — quietly training the next generation not just in technique, but in values.
In the end, his wines do what he does: they hold still, they don’t explain, and they don’t rush. They endure. And for those who seek the essence of volcanic Hungarian wine — of what Somló can truly be — they remain one of the purest starting points.
