The Furmint February is in its 15th year, organised by Dani Kezdy, an annual event now featuring around 100 wineries from Tokaj, Somló, Balaton and beyond. Dani’s efforts have significantly increased both domestic and international awareness of Furmint. The Grand Tasting is a great opportunity to see the development of the variety and talk to the winemakers behind the wines.
Brief History of Furmint
Furmint is a historic Hungarian grape variety -or as I like to call it the big issue-, first documented in 1571 in Tokaj, though some sources cite 1623. It has long been the backbone of Tokaj’s winemaking tradition, particularly in Aszú wines. Historical records show that Furmint was once more widespread, appearing in Szerémség, and Burgenland.
Genetic studies confirm that Furmint is related to Gouais blanc, making it a distant relative of Chardonnay and Riesling. It’s more a neutral variety with high acidity, on the one side fairly tough -phenolic bitterness is not uncommon- yet versatile great for sparkling wines, dry still and noble sweet wines. Suitable to showcase -mainly as single variety- site-specific attributes (e.g. single vineyard) as well as fantastic in blends, particularly with Hárslevelű.
Two major districts in Hungary, Tokaj and Somló are at the forefront.
Let’s look at them in detail through the wines and nature.
Tokaj (Tokaj PDO)
Tokaj is Hungary’s most renowned wine region and the historic home of Furmint. The region covers 5,011 hectares, with 3,184 hectares planted with Furmint, making it the dominant variety. The terroir is shaped by volcanic bedrock, mixed with loess, clay, rhyolite, and zeolite, creating soils that retain water while allowing deep root penetration.
Tokaj has a continental climate, influenced by the Bodrog and Tisza rivers, which contribute to high humidity levels, enabling botrytis (noble rot) formation. The region is part of the UNESCO World Heritage.
Single vineyard (Bomboly) in Tokaj
Somló (PDO)
Somló consisting of three mountains the Somló, Kissomlyó, and the Ság hegy. Covering a total of 431 hectares, with 75 hectares planted to Furmint.
The climate is moderately continental, with some warming Pannonian influence. The basalt retains heat, extending the ripening process, resulting in full-bodied wines with firm acidity and complex herbal and smoky notes, the wines usually need time in barrel/bottle. Due to the winds and lower humidity, botrytis is less common, making dry wines the primary style.
The Somló mountain
What’s Different and Similar?
Both regions share Furmint’s high acidity and terroir-driven nature, but they express it differently. Tokaj’s mixed soils create wines with refined elegance and freshness, with mineral tension, while Somló’s basalt bedrock produces bold, structured, and salty, sometimes even oily wines.
Tokaj’s rivers encourage botrytis, making it famous for sweet Aszú wines, whereas Somló focuses on dry, age-worthy wines with a distinct smoky and salty profile. Tokaj’s wines are citrus-forward and precise, while Somló’s are broader, richer, and more phenolic.
Sensory Key Points of Tokaj Furmint
Tokaj Furmint is known for its precision, structure, and expressive minerality. The region’s volcanic soils, mixed with loess and clay, contribute to a balanced yet firm acidity that defines the wines. The aromatic profile is often characterized by citrus (lemon, lime, grapefruit), white-fleshed fruits (quince, pear), and floral elements (chamomile, white blossoms, acacia).
In dry wines, the texture is linear and refined, with a pronounced spicy, saline minerality. Wines often start with zesty freshness, evolving into nutty and honeyed notes with age. The influence of lees ageing and barrel fermentation can introduce subtle spice, brioche, and creaminess, though the primary focus remains on terroir expression.
Botrytis plays a significant role in Tokaj’s sensory profile. Even in non-Aszú wines, hints of dried apricot, orange peel, and saffron may emerge, especially in late-harvest or off-dry styles. The wines consistently showcase long ageing potential, with acidity providing structure for extended development in both dry and sweet expressions.
Sensory Key Points of Somló Furmint
Somló Furmint is powerful, structured, and mineral-driven with a salty and often oily texture. The region’s pure basalt soils create wines with deep salinity, “flintiness”, and an almost smoky, volcanic character. The fruit profile is often more restrained, showing quince, ripe pear, yellow apple, and hints of tangerine.
The acidity is firm and persistent, while the mouthfeel is rounder and more textured due to the unique thermal properties of basalt, which extends the ripening process. The wines often develop a phenolic grip, giving them a tactile dimension that differs from Tokaj’s which tends to be rather vibrant, and focused, with tension and a certain tightness.
Aromatic complexity is influenced by herbal and savoury notes, with frequent descriptors including green herbs, white pepper, asparagus, and crushed stone. The presence of lees ageing or extended skin contact can further enhance weight and texture, while oak use typically remains subtle to preserve the terroir expression.
Somló’s wines need to be aged, period.
Plantings decrease somewhat of the variety
Differences and Similarities in Sensory Expression
Both Tokaj and Somló produce high-acid, terroir-driven wines, but their expression of minerality, fruit character, and texture differs significantly.
- Tokaj’s acidity is precise and linear, emphasizing freshness, while Somló’s acidity remains firm, influenced by the thermal properties of basalt
- Tokaj wines show refined minerality, often stony with structured tension, while Somló wines display an intense, smoky, flinty, and distinctly salty volcanic signature.
- Fruit character in Tokaj is more expressive, featuring bright citrus and orchard fruits, while Somló wines lean towards ripe pear, quince, and savoury herbal tones.
- Tokaj supports both dry and sweet styles, influenced by botrytis, while Somló primarily focuses on dry wines.
Both regions emphasize terroir-driven winemaking, but Tokaj’s wines are more elegant and layered, whereas Somló produces bold, structured wines with distinctive volcanic intensity.
Tokaj and Somló both showcase Furmint’s high acidity, terroir transparency, and ageing potential, yet their structural, textural, and aromatic profiles diverge due to distinct geological and climatic factors.
Tokaj’s soils mix volcanic bedrock with loess and clay, leading to linear acidity and precise mineral expression. In contrast, Somló’s predominantly basalt-based soils result in wines with deeper salinity, phenolic grip, and a more intense, volcanic-driven character. Tokaj’s climate is more humid due to the Bodrog and Tisza rivers, fostering botrytis development, while Somló’s wind-exposed vineyards discourage noble rot, reinforcing its focus on dry, structured wines.
In Tokaj, fruit expression leans toward citrus, quince, and orchard fruits, with potential botrytis influence in certain years, whereas Somló favours ripe pear, tangerine, and herbal undertones. Structurally, Tokaj Furmints exhibit a more elegant, layered evolution, while Somló wines show broader acidity, richer texture, and a more oxidative trajectory over time.
Both districts define Hungary’s volcanic terroir heritage, but Tokaj is more versatile in style, excelling in both dry and sweet expressions, while Somló remains a benchmark for powerful, mineral-driven dry wines with extreme longevity.
