Volcanic Terroir of Hungary

Volcanic soil is formed from solidified magma and ash, classified as igneous rock, and can be further divided into basalt (basic rock) and rhyolite or tuff (acidic rock). These soils are often rich in minerals, well-draining, and capable of retaining heat.

Hungary’s volcanic t  erroir is among the most diverse in Europe, shaped by millions of years of geological activity. These soils influence viticulture across the country, particularly in regions like Tokaj, Eger, Somló, Badacsony, and the Balaton Highlands (Balaton-felvidék).

Today, Hungary has approximately 55,000 hectares of vineyards, with an estimated one-third situated on volcanic soils.

Geological Foundations: East vs. West

Hungary’s volcanic landscape is divided into two primary zones: the western and eastern volcanic regions. Each has distinct soil compositions, influencing grape growing conditions and, ultimately, the character of the wines.

• Western Volcanic Zone: Dominated by basaltic formations, this includes areas around Lake Balaton, Badacsony, Somló, and the Káli Basin. Basalt, a dark volcanic rock rich in iron and magnesium, absorbs and retains heat efficiently, creating optimal conditions for grape ripening and contributing to the wines’ structure and freshness. This creates favourable conditions for ripening grapes and contributes to wines with distinctive structure and freshness. The lake itself plays a crucial moderating role, enhancing the microclimate.
• Eastern Volcanic Zone: Centered around Tokaj, Eger, and the Bükk and Mátra regions, this area is characterized by rhyolite and tuff. These acidic volcanic rocks differ from basalt in composition, influencing drainage and root penetration. The result is wines with high acidity, refined structure, and a mineral-driven profile. Tokaj’s volcanic soils, combined with loess deposits, contribute to the complexity of its world-famous sweet wines.

The Influence of Volcanic Soils on Hungarian Wines

Volcanic soils impact vine growth, water retention, and nutrient availability. The key characteristics that define wines from volcanic regions include:

• Minerality: While a debated concept, many tasters associate volcanic wines with pronounced mineral-driven flavours, often described as stony or saline.
• Acidity: Volcanic soils tend to produce grapes with naturally high acidity, leading to wines with a long ageing potential and vibrant freshness. However, climate plays a primary role in shaping acidity and should be considered first.
• Structure and Complexity: Due to the unique stress conditions these soils impose on vines, grapes tend to develop concentrated flavours, leading to complex wines. I like to call them “noble wines”.

The Great Somló 

Hungary’s Key Volcanic Wine Regions

• Badacsony & Balaton Highlands: Known for structured, age-worthy white wines, particularly from local varieties like Olaszrizling, Kéknyelű (in Badacsony), and Riesling. The basalt-rich soils contribute to wines with depth and persistence.
• Somló: Volcanic hill(s), producing some of Hungary’s most distinctive white wines. Furmint, Juhfark, and Hárslevelű thrive in its basalt-based soils, yielding wines with striking minerality and longevity.
• Tokaj: The world-renowned sweet wines of Tokaj owe their complexity to its rhyolitic and tuff-based soils. These soils help retain moisture while promoting high acidity in Furmint and Hárslevelű, the backbone of Tokaj wines. The single-vineyard designation further enhances the individuality of these wines.
• Eger & Bükk: These regions share similarities with Tokaj in their rhyolitic soils, but also have a strong red wine presence, particularly in Egri Bikavér blends, where volcanic terroir contributes to their vibrancy and depth.

Sopron, known for its limestone soils, also has granite formations, an igneous rock type that connects it to Hungary’s volcanic heritage. Similarly, Velence, part of the Etyek-Buda district, has traces of granite influence, contributing to the structure and mineral complexity of certain wines. Though not as dominant in volcanic characteristics as Somló or Tokaj, these regions showcase the geological diversity of Hungary’s wine landscape.

Hungary’s Volcanic Heritage in Wine

Hungary’s volcanic wines stand out not just for their unique terroirs but for their history and diversity. With over 220 permitted grape varieties, the country’s volcanic wine regions embrace indigenous varieties and traditional winemaking methods. This deep connection to place, shaped by geological history, is what makes Hungarian volcanic wines distinctive.

Hungary’s volcanic wine regions exhibit distinct characteristics shaped by their soils, from the high-acid, age-worthy whites of Somló and Badacsony, to the structured, mineral-driven dry and sweet wines of Tokaj, and the fresh, spicy reds of Eger and Tihany. The geological diversity, from basalt-rich western regions to rhyolite and tuff-dominated eastern sites, defines Hungary’s volcanic terroir and the unique sensory experience these wines offer.

OIV Conference 2024 – Masterclass on “Volcanic Wines of Hungary”

Sensory Profile of Hungary’s Volcanic Wines

Volcanic wines often share distinct sensory characteristics, shaped by soil composition, climate, and grape varieties. Here’s a breakdown of key Hungarian volcanic wine regions and their taste profiles:

• Badacsony & Balaton Highlands (Basalt-based soils)
  • Wines: Structured, age-worthy whites.
  • Grape varieties: Riesling, Olaszrizling, Kéknyelű, and others.
  • Sensory profile: High acidity, firm structure, sometimes spicy Badacsony adds a hint of bitter texture due to magnesium in the soil, it’s reckoned.
• Somló (Basalt & Tuff soils)
  • Wines: Bold, long-lived whites with a strong sense of place.
  • Grape varieties: Juhfark, Furmint, Hárslevelű.
  • Sensory profile: Intense acidity, phenolic structure, often requiring ageing to fully express themselves.
• Tokaj (Rhyolite & Tuff soils with Loess influence)
  • Wines: World-renowned for its sweet wines, but also for producing structured, diverse dry whites.
  • Grape varieties: Furmint, Hárslevelű.
  • Sensory profile: Sweet wines balance high acidity with richness, showing complex layers of honey, citrus, and dried fruits. Dry wines exhibit laser-sharp acidity, mineral tension, and depth.
• Eger & Bükk (Rhyolite-based volcanic soils)
  • Wines: Balanced reds and structured whites.
  • Grape varieties: Kékfrankos, international red blends, Leányka, Olaszrizling and others.
  • Sensory profile: Fresh acidity, fine tannins, spice-driven reds with structure medium to medium-full bodies. Whites, crisp acidity, often blend. Bükk tends to be cooler and leaner in style while Eger is showing due to the single vineyards and history layers of complexity.

Volcanic soils, diversity

Hungary’s volcanic wine scene is evidence of geology and time, providing wines that precisely reflect their roots. From high-acid, age-worthy whites to structured and complex reds and sweet wines, the contrast between the basalt-rich western areas and the rhyolite and tuff-dominated eastern zones highlights a wide spectrum of styles.