Volcanoes have always held a special fascination for me. Whether climbing Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, hiking Mount Fuji in Japan, or wandering through vineyards perched on volcanic hills, I am captivated by their mysticism, secrets, and the challenges they offer. These settings, sculpted by past eruptions, are not only geological marvels but also refuges for outstanding wine. With their taste sensations and textures, volcanic wines mirror human inventiveness as well as the battle of nature. They ask us to taste the stories buried in the ground and discover the areas from whence they emerge. Let’s travel across some of the most interesting volcanic wine areas across Europe.

Hungary: Balaton to Mátra Volcanic Wines
For those who enjoy volcanic wines, Hungary’s wine scene is a treasure store. It presents an amazing range of terroirs with 40 PDOs and around 10 important volcanic formations; an estimated 33% of the vineyard land is partially under volcanic soil. The crown gem, Tokaj offers an interesting analogy between wines from loess soils in Tarcal or Tokaj and those from rhyolite and tuff in Mád. Look for a winemaker with vines in both regions; thanks to the particular subtleties of the soil, you will find how similar winemaking techniques produce different outcomes.

The volcanic legacy of Hungary goes beyond Tokaj. From tertiary volcanic rock to Mesozoic vulcanite, draw a vertical line over Lake Balaton to find volcanic structures north of it. Here the Miocene era left its imprint with tuff, rhyolite, and andesite. Often referred to as a hidden treasure, the Mátra region boasts vines with andesite and tuff soils that are shielded from northern winds by the mountains. The Gyöngyöspata basin is close by; the soils there are rich in iron and manganese oxides, and southeast-facing vineyards provide wines of great promise.

Travel west, and Lake Balaton’s north shore features amazing volcanic sites.

Tihany Peninsula: Rich in silica-based tuff, this 7-million-year-old volcanic region
Triassic basalt, marl, and limestone with strong magnesium and iron concentrations define the Káli Basin.
Badacsony is renowned for its tuff-rich, basalt-based vineyards.
Somló: Particularly outstanding with its single volcanic terroir.
Hungary’s volcanic vineyards are rich in past and ready for modern ideas. The possibility for a single-vineyard categorisation or commune-oriented appellations looks within reach given that terroir-oriented winemaking is on the rise.

Austrian elegance: Steiermark territory
Whoever chose to re-brand Südoststeiermark as Vulkanland (DAC even!) should get a medal. The word alone gives the wine a unique character and reminds one of the fiery geological beginnings of the region. Found in the centre of what was originally the Paratethys Sea, developed alongside the Alps about 34 million years ago, Vulkanland Steiermark Peak 2.8 million years ago, volcanic activity here left behind a sequence of formations including Königsberg, Stradner Kogel, and Riegersburg.

Wines from Vulkanland carry a signature volcanic character. Compared to their Südsteiermark counterparts, they are weightier, spicier, and riper, with a textured mouthfeel. The Eruption Winzer group has taken the DAC system further, introducing classifications like Erste Lage (1er Cru) and Grosse Lage (Grand Cru), with permitted varieties including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. These wines seamlessly marry the purity of fruit with the unmistakable influence of volcanic soils, offering a drinking experience that’s both elegant and profound.

Santorini: Liquid Lava in a Glass

Santorini is a volcanic paradise for wine lovers. The island’s iconic Assyrtiko grape thrives in its harsh, pumice-rich soils, yielding wines of unparalleled minerality and freshness. Vines here struggle against wind, water scarcity, and intense sunlight, producing low-yield, high-concentration grapes.

A standout example is the 2001 Vin Santo from Estate Argyros, created from over 200-year-old ungrafted vines. Grapes are sun-dried for two weeks before undergoing natural fermentation and ageing in diverse vessels. With fewer than 5,000 bottles produced, this wine is a masterpiece that transports you to its birthplace—a true testament to Santorini’s magic.

Tenerife: Volcanic Diversity in Every Glass

The largest of the Canary Islands, Tenerife boasts a stunning array of vineyards, from coastal plains to steep terraces at elevations of up to 1,800 meters. The island’s unique terroir is shaped by trade winds, varied climates, and volcanic soils, yielding wines with vibrant acidity, aromatic complexity, and mineral depth.

Tenerife’s DOs have different qualities

Terraced vineyards with ‘maritime’ inspiration to create balanced wines under Tacoronte-Acentejo.
Ycoden-Daute-Isora: Warm, raised vineyards deftly creating reds and whites.
Abona: High altitude focused on strong reds and vivid whites.
Valle de Güímar is a varied area creating unique wines.
Renowned Listán Blanco wines and the Cordon Trenzado training method define Valle de la Orotava.
Among Tenerife’s beauties is Orotava Valley’s Suertes del Marques Winery. One of their best is their 2013 Trenzado, a mix of old vine Listán Blanco. Its waxy texture, salty mineral edge, and strong acidity define Tenerife’s volcanic terroir exactly.

Notion of fire

Volcanic soils range widely in composition,   which affects the wines they create from basalt to rhyolite.
Rich in iron and magnesium, basaltic soils provide mineral-driven wines.
High in silica but poor in nutrients, silicic soils produce wines with elegance and tension.
Dacite and andesite bridge the void and provide complexity and balance from intermediate soils.
Whether you classify by soil type, age, or location (island vs. mainland), volcanic wines never cease to fascinate with their depth and character.

Volcanic wines are evidence of both natural strength and human endurance. Their distinctive tastes, sculpted by millennia of geological drama, beckon us to investigate their sources sip by sip. Keep sampling and let the wines lead you to these remarkable areas. Track me on social media for additional stories.